Swedish Apolobamba Expedition 2001

Preliminary Report

Date: 6 June - 22 June 2001
Country: Bolivia
Area: Cordillera Apolobamba, near Lago Paouche west of Cololo.
Climbers: Olof Dallner and Michael Wåhlin.
From: Stockholm, Sweden.

Summary:
We spent 18 days unsupported (no mules or porters) in the central area of Cordillera Apolobamba.
Base camp was located east of Lago Paouche at 4700m. We later moved base camp to below the Cololo glacier at 4900m.
4 new peaks were climbed. The names mentioned are local names taken from the NIMA Pelechuco map scale 1:50.000. The altitude was measured with a Silva "Alta" Altimeter calibrated at Lago Paouche.
The grades are in the French system, and the steepest angle is given.
A section of the Hudson map is included below.

List of first ascents:

Cerro Chello Cunka Este (5400m).
Location: unmarked peak east of 5490 on the Hudson map.
Date: 9 June 2001.
Route: west ridge.
Grade: PD, 200m, 35 degrees.
Approach from Lago Paouche: 3 hours.
Climb: 45 min - 60 min.

Cerro Chelllo Cunka Este is the peak in the middle.

Cerro Chello Cunka Este from the north. West ridge route is marked.

Nevado Jacha Huaracha (5540m).
Location: marked 5527 on the Hudson map.
Date: 13 June 2001.
Route: north face. Left side of N face, steepest line on face.
Grade: D-, 200m, 65 degrees.
Approach from Lago Paouche: 1.5 hours to glacier. Walk up the glacier to the col. Turn right. 3.5 hours to the start of the climb.
Climb: 2 hours.

Nevado Jacha Huaracha seen from Lago Paouche (west).

The route on the north face of Nevado Jacha Huaracha.

Cerro Chello Cunka (5450m).
Location: marked 5490 on the Hudson map.
Date: 16 June 2001.
Route: north slopes.
Grade: PD, 250m, 35 degrees.
Approach from Lago Paouche: 3 hours.
Climb: 45 min.

Cerro Chello Cunka is the snowy peak to the far right.

Cerro Chello Cunka north slope (seen from Chello Cunka Este).

Cerro Chualluma Sud (5390m).
Location: marked 5427 on the Hudson map.
Date: 19 June 2001.
Route: south slopes.
Grade: PD, 200m, 35 degrees.
Approach from Lago Paouche: 3 hours.
Climb: 2 hours.
Other: Poor snow conditions on the south slopes.

Cerro Chualluma from Lago Paouche (west). We climbed the south slopes to the south summit.

A section of the Hudson map. Click to enlarge.

Altitude diagram for day 1-12 (acclimatization before going to Apolobamba). Click to enlarge.

Altitude diagram for the time in Apolobamba. Click to enlarge.

Other climbs in Bolivia done by the expedition:
1st of July 2001: Huayna Potosi normal route.
7th of July 2001: Sajama.
13th of July 2001: Huayna Potosi West Face.
20th of July 2001: Cabeza de Condor.
21st of July 2001: Pequeno Alpamayo.

Index